God bless Mario Batali, New York's one big-name chef who thinks you shouldn't have to spend a fortune to eat like a king. The man behind Babbo also operates this winning Roman-style trattoria. Reservations are taken for the back room only, and I strongly advise you to arrange for them if you can, because it's quieter and more civilized. The front room is reserved for walk-ins; it's loud and cramped and you'll probably have to wait for a table unless you come early, but the food is worth it.

Don't be scared off by the all-Italian menu, as a few folks seemed to be on our first visit; the helpful butcher-coated waiter will steer you through the language and preparations. The menu boasts lots of treats. As always with Mario, the pastas stand out: The rigatoni with broccoli rabe pesto and ricotta salata is magnificent as is the creamy ricotta gnocchi with Italian sausage and fennel. Lupa is also a salumeria, so don't miss an opportunity to start with the prosciutto di carpegna with roasted figs, an ideal marriage of salt and sweet; in fact, it's easy to build a value-packed meal from the long list of antipasti options. The wine list is massive and superaffordable.