Even if you don't stay at the ultraromantic Inn at Irving Place, you can enjoy fine afternoon tea service in the high Victorian parlor of the gorgeous 1834 Greek Revival town house. Named for 19th-century society decorator Elsie deWolfe (Mendl was her married name), the tearoom is a bastion of period civility, with impeccable antiques arranged in ladylike groupings, vintage lamps illuminating the rich textiles and soft colors, and two fireplaces casting a warm glow. The refined staff serves a graceful and delicious five-course afternoon tea that includes a selection of delicate finger sandwiches (sans crusts, of course), home-baked scones with Devonshire cream and homemade strawberry jam, and two dessert courses, including a cookie course (with light-as-air palmiers) and a cake course (don't pass on anything chocolate). The lovely thing about Lady Mendl's is that it's supremely elegant without being the least bit stuffy or formal.