This big, airy neoclassical-goes-farmhouse cafe (a Franco-Belgian transplant) is one of my favorites for a sophisticated casual meal at a bargain-basement price. Take a seat at a table for two or cozy up to one of the generous and comfy common tables (the one in the sunlit front room is best). The light menu is made up mostly of beautifully crafted sandwiches and salads. Excellent choices include the open-faced beef carpaccio sandwich dressed with basil, Parmesan, and virgin olive oil on dark country bread; Paris ham with three mustards on crusty French; and a board of fine French cheeses -- brie, chavignol, Gruyère -- and your choice of walnut bread, rye, wheat, or a crusty baguette. Salads are a particularly good value, because they come piled high and accompanied by a generous plate of French bread. Soups are homemade, hearty, and warming. Breads are baked five times daily in small batches to insure freshness. Save room for the divine desserts -- fruit tarts, pies, brownies, cookies, brioches -- or stop by just for a sweet and a cappuccino. Tables are waiter-serviced, but an up-front counter serves walk-ins and takeout.