After more than a decade since it opened, First is as hip and winning as ever. The room is big and comfortable, with curved leather banquettes, a barrel-vaulted ceiling, and the increasing vibe of a nightclub as the night wears on.

First is all about fun. The best way to open the meal is with one of the bar's "Tiny Tinis," mini martinis that come in a range of silly and seasonal flavors. A large menu of share-able starters offers Sam's haute takes on familiar party foods, including his signature buffalo "lollipop" wings -- served on a stick, with blue cheese fondue for dipping -- crisp Asian-style oysters with wasabi mayo, shrimp cocktail, and potato skins dressed with smoked salmon, caviar, and crème fraîche. Mains are more straightforward but still have an only-in-New York ethnic flair: witness roast pork loin with sauerkraut and pierogi, crab cakes with peanut noodles and mango salsa, and grilled Mediterranean-style chicken with Greek salad. A small menu of casual bites -- including First's famous mini-burgers and a "two-fisted" BLT -- rounds out the offerings, making First a worthwhile choice at any time of day.