When Europe's most famous Michelin three-star chef debuted his first New York restaurant in 2000, it seemed like he may have even pushed we'll-pay-anything New Yorkers too far. Initial reviews said nothing to justify the price tags, and rituals like presenting a selection of pens like they were fine cigars at bill-signing time just seemed silly. In the subsequent year, however, Ducasse set aside some of the initial imperiousness, put his staff to the grindstone, and ultimately mellowed the restaurant into something very close to those high expectations and astronomical prices.

Ducasse has elevated special-occasion dining to a whole new level. The intimate, antique-filled dining rooms are bold, colorful, and richly formal; unlike so many other "fine" dining establishments, this is a place worth dressing up for. Expect ultra-elegant haute French cuisine with the occasional Mediterranean flair. Each dish is a symphony of bold flavors, and claims that preparations were uneven early on have disappeared. The standard $165 prix-fixe features five courses, the $150 version only four. If it's truffle season, beware your wallet, because truffle supplements are in the $70 range -- or delight if you can afford it, because it doesn't get any better than this. The wine list is phenomenally expensive but fabulous and service is smooth and elegant.