In Finnish, "Ilo" means "a place of joy" -- and is it ever. Chef Rick Laakonen has devised a restaurant that blends ultra-modernism with classic extravagance, and it's a winning combination.

The dining room is set at the back of the lobby of the Bryant Park Hotel, in the glorious American Radiator Building; be sure to take a minute to admire the gilt-edged facade from across the street before you rush in to meet your reservation. Inside, the room is magnificently modern, with clean lines, high ceilings, and a rich palette of red and chocolate. Table spacing is generous and seating is comfortable.

In his cuisine, Laakonen puts an exotic spin on the familiar -- from sashimi-quality tuna to grilled sturgeon to rack of lamb -- and the results are thrilling. Dishes are lush with fragrances, flavors, and textures, but never overwhelming. There are many stars on the menu, but my favorite was the lemon-scented ragout of octopus and Manila clams. But you won't go wrong with anything here. A real joy!

Tip: Make plans to start or end the evening in the romantic Cellar Bar downstairs.