No more compelling evidence of New Yorkers' commitment to high living in the post-boom days exists than this restaurant, devoted to the cuisine of Gascony -- which means all the foie gras, duck, and Armagnac you can consume in a sitting. The food is outstanding, and relatively affordable considering the decadence level. That may be because the folks behind the restaurant have an inside connection: D'Artagnan is the nation's largest purveyor of paté and foie gras.

The old-world interiors and folk-costumed servers offer a refreshing change from the new hip standard. The restaurant (and downstairs shop) is housed in a converted townhouse, which only adds to the wonderful character. Tables are large and well spaced, and the ambience is warm and conversational. Wear loose pants, because this ain't diet food. Foie gras is available at every course; in fact, two in our party indulged in a six-course foie gras tasting menu with an Armagnac course. L'Assiette des 3 Foie Gras makes an ideal starter, with three creative preparations; there's also a wonderful charcuterie plate with paté and cornichons. Duck leg confit makes a nice follow-up, as does the fabulously authentic, duck-rich cassoulet. The chicken is free-range and beautifully rotisseried, if you're in the mood for something lighter. Vegetarians might as well stay home.