There's nothing new about New Big Wong and that's a good thing. Why mess with success? For over 30 years, Big Wong has been an institution for workers from the nearby courthouses and Chinese families who come to feast on congee (rice porridge) and fried crullers for breakfast. They come not only for the congee, but the superb roasted meats, pork and duck seen hanging in the window, the comforting noodle soups, and the terrific barbecued ribs. This is simple, down-home Cantonese food -- lo mein, chow fun, bok choy in oyster sauce -- cooked lovingly, and so very cheap. If you don't mind sharing a table, Big Wong is a must at any time of day.