You won't find many Malaysian restaurants in New York, but one of the few, and also one of the best, is Chinatown's Nyonya. This spacious, bustling restaurant designed like a south Asian tiki hut, offers efficient and friendly service, but it's the huge portions of exotic, spicy food that's the real treat. Coconut milk, curry, and chili pepper laden dishes are staples of Malaysian cuisine and the norm at Nyonya. The Malaysian national dish, roti canai (an Indian pancake with a curry chicken dipping sauce), is outstanding. The noodle soups are meals in themselves; prawn mee (egg noodles, shredded pork, large shrimp in a spicy shrimp broth) was sinus-clearing, while the curry spareribs nothing short of spectacular. Even the drinks and desserts are exotic including sooi pooi drink (sour plum) and pulut hitam (creamy black glutinous rice with coconut milk). But vegetarians beware: there's not much on the menu for you here; most dishes are prepared in either a meat or fish broth.