Nothing fancy about this place, just a brightly lit, 25-seater on a not very attractive block in upper Harlem. But you don't come here for fancy, no tourist trappings, either. You come for soul food at its simplest and freshest. And you better come hungry. The all-you-can-eat buffet features crunchy, incredibly moist pan-fried chicken, ribs in a tangy sauce with meat falling off the bone, smoky stewed oxtails in a thick brown onion gravy, macaroni and cheese, collard greens with bits of smoked turkey, black-eyed peas, and corn bread warm and not overly sweet. Desserts are constantly changing, but always fresh; I had an incredible slice of carrot cake on my last visit. The beverage choices are limited to lemonade or ice tea, so bring your own of whatever else you might want. Brave the long journey uptown, you'll not regret the experience. Hours, however, can be erratic, so call ahead before you make the trek.