The most astonishing thing about the aircraft carrier USS Intrepid is how it can be simultaneously so big and so small. It's a few football fields long, weighs 40,000 tons, holds 40 aircraft, and sometimes doubles as a ballroom for society functions. But stand there and think about landing an A-12 jet on the deck and suddenly it's minuscule. Furthermore, in the narrow passageways below, you'll find it isn't quite the roomiest of vessels. Now a National Historic Landmark, the exhibit also includes the naval destroyer USS Edson, and the submarine USS Growler, the only intact strategic missile submarine open to the public anywhere in the world, as well as a collection of vintage and modern aircraft, including the A-12 Blackbird, the world's fastest spy plane.

Kids just love this place. They, and you, can climb inside a replica Revolutionary War submarine, sit in an A-6 Intruder cockpit, and follow the progress of America's astronauts as they work in space. There are even navy flight simulators -- including a "Fly with the Blue Angels" program -- for educational thrill rides in the Technologies Hall. Look for family-oriented activities and events at least one Saturday a month.

Introduced in 2002, "All Hands on Deck" teaches both children and adults how things work on ships, plus there's a new AH-1 Cobra attack helicopter. The action-packed Intrepid Wings shows aircraft carrier take-offs and recoveries in the new Allison and Howard Lutnick Theater; the film runs continuously throughout the day. The exhibit "Remembering 9-11" recalls those lost, both civilians and rescuers. The grand visitor center makes for an impressive entrance, and the massive museum store is well stocked; goods include NYPD and FDNY logo gear. Dress warmly for a winter visit -- it's almost impossible to heat an aircraft carrier.