This cozy Mexican joint, in a modest old blue house in Oak Cliff, south of Dallas, is one of the best home-style Mexican restaurants in the area. A cult favorite, it deserves to be much better known. The extensive menu focuses on nouvelle Mexican fish dishes, such as superb ceviche (fish and shrimp marinated with lime), Mexican seafood cocktails, and main courses like chile relleno de mariscos (poblano pepper stuffed with shrimp, scallops, octopus, and fish). They even do respectable Spanish paella, or you can opt for the more standard Tex-Mex plates. The soups, like sopa de pescado (fish soup) and caldo Xochitl (Oaxacan-style chicken soup) make wonderful appetizers.

If you can't make it to Calle Doce's south-of-downtown Oak Cliff location, try the branch in Lakewood at 1925 Skillman Dr. (tel. 214/824-9900); it's much less atmospheric but serves the same menu.