This is the most casual of chef Tom Douglas's three Seattle establishments, with a bar that attracts nearly as many customers as the restaurant. The atmosphere is urban chic, with cement pillars, simple wood booths, and a few tables in the front window, which overlooks the monorail tracks. The menu is short and features a nightly selection of unusual cheeses and different preparations from the apple-wood grill. To begin a meal, we like the creamy goat-cheese fondue. Entrees are usually simple and delicious and range from the Palace burger royale (a strong contender for best burger in Seattle) to Southern-influenced dishes such as pork loin with grits and greens. For dessert, the coconut cream pie is an absolute must.