Pike Place Market, originally a farmers market, was founded in 1907 when housewives complained that middlemen were raising the price of produce. The market allowed shoppers to buy directly from producers, and thus save on grocery bills. By the 1960s, however, the market was no longer the popular spot it had been. World War II had deprived it of nearly half its farmers when Japanese Americans were moved to internment camps. The postwar flight to the suburbs almost spelled the end of the market, and the site was being eyed for a major redevelopment project. Fortunately, a grass-roots movement to save the 9-acre market culminated in its being declared a National Historic District.

Today the market is once again bustling, but the 100 or so farmers and fishmongers who set up shop on the premises are only a small part of the attraction. More than 150 local craftspeople and artists can be found here, selling their creations as street performers serenade milling crowds. There are also hundreds of small specialty shops throughout the market, plus dozens of restaurants, including some of the city's best. At the information booth almost directly below the large Pike Place Market sign, you can pick up a free map and guide to the market. Keep an eye out for low-flying fish at the Pike Place Fish stall, and be sure to save some change for Rachel, the market's giant piggy bank, which has raised more than $100,000 over the years.

Victor Steinbrueck Park, at the north end of the market at the intersection of Pike Place, Virginia Street, and Western Avenue, is a popular lounging area for both the homeless and people just looking for a grassy place in which to sit in the sun. In the park, you'll find two 50-foot-tall totem poles.

For a glimpse behind the scenes at the market and to learn all about its history, you can take a 1-hour guided Market Heritage Tour (tel. 206/682-7453, ext. 653, for information and reservations). Tours are offered Wednesday through Sunday at 11am and 2pm. Tours depart from the market's Heritage Center, 1531 Western Ave. (take the Skybridge to the Market Garage and then take the elevator to the Western Ave. level). The Heritage Center is an open-air building filled with historical exhibits. Tours cost $7 for adults and $5 for seniors and children under age 18.