We took our French exchange student here, and guess what she ordered: steak frites. I did the same. In fact, everyone in the restaurant was devouring the onglet (a boneless French cut hangar steak hard to find outside France), steak au poivre, steak tartare, New York sirloin, and other cuts, all of which come with frites, which are a must. (Actually, 2 diners at our table ordered ravioli and a chicken salad, and boy were they sorry.) The menu isn't all beef, but it is classic French, featuring cassoulet, confit de canard, escargots, onion soup, choucroutte garni, and an irresistible frisée aux lardons (a savory salad of chicory studded with hunks of bacon and toast, smeared thickly with Roquefort). Should you spy something on the menu that's not Gallic, ignore it.

Les Halles is big and charmingly French. The banquettes, pressed-tin ceiling, mirrors, wooden floor, and side bar capture the feel of a brasserie. A vast window front overlooks Pennsylvania Avenue and the awning-covered sidewalk cafe, which is enclosed in cold weather and is a superb spot to dine year-round. Every July 14, this is the place to be for the annual Bastille Day race, which Les Halles hosts. Les Halles is a favorite hangout for cigar smokers, but the smoking area is well ventilated.