Food critics mention Galileo as one of the best Italian restaurants in the country and Roberto Donna as one of the nation's best chefs. The likable Donna opened the white-walled grottolike Galileo in 1984; since then, he has opened other restaurants in the area, including Il Radicchio on Capitol Hill. He's also written a cookbook, and has established himself as an integral part of Washington culture.

Donna cures his own ham for salami and prosciutto, and his sausages, pastas, mozzarella, marmalades, and breads are all made in-house. Galileo features the cuisine of Donna's native Piedmont region, an area in northern Italy influenced by neighboring France and Switzerland -- think truffles, hazelnuts, porcini mushrooms, and veal. The atmosphere is relaxed; some diners are dressed in jeans, others in suits. Waiters can be supercilious, though.

You have many options. You can order a la carte, or choose either of two different fixed-price menus, at $60 (four courses) or $80 (six courses). Typical entrees include a risotto with black truffles, whole roasted baby pig stuffed with sausage and porcini mushrooms, a house-made saffron pasta with ragout of veal, or a roasted black sea bass served with sesame sauce. Finish with a traditional tiramisu, or, better yet, the milk chocolate passion fruit torte with a crème brûlée center. The cellar boasts more than 900 vintages of Italian wine (40% Piedmontese).

But wait -- there's more. For the ultimate dining experience, book a seat at the table in Donna's Laboratorio del Galileo (tel. 202/331-0880), a private dining area and kitchen enclosed by glass, where Donna prepares the 10- to 12-course tasting menu ($98 weekdays, $110 weekends) and entertains you and 29 other lucky diners. There is also a terrace for warm-weather dining.