Washington's powerful people like steakhouses, and that's a fact. Since the Caucus Room is owned by a bipartisan bunch of heavy-hitting politicos and entrepreneurs (Democratic fundraiser and Clinton bud Terry McAuliffe and former Republican National Committee chairman Haley Barbour, to name but 2 of the 70 investors), the Caucus Room was almost a guaranteed success even before it opened in August 2000. At lunch and dinner, it's a true Washington scene, with all that that entails: a sprinkling of congressmen and -women, television newscasters, and corporate VIPs throughout the main dining room; lots of backslapping and shaking of hands; and private meetings taking place behind closed doors (the restaurant has a number of private dining rooms).

But I'm here to tell you, the food is good. Haley's chopped salad of diced bell peppers, blue cheese, and mustard vinaigrette is a hit. The porterhouse steak is juicy, and the braised lamb shank, with cranberry beans in roasted vegetable sauce, is thoroughly delicious. The restaurant also is known for certain nonmeat entrees, such as the crab cakes (the pass/fail test for a D.C. restaurant), which is served here with a smoky bacon succotash. Even side dishes, like the creamed spinach and the horseradish-spiked mashed potatoes, are winners.

When you've finished all that, you can lean back against the leather banquettes and discreetly search for famous faces while you enjoy dessert. I polished off a big slice of coconut cake, but I hear the pecan pie is pretty good, too.