When Michel Richard, acclaimed chef of Michel Richard Citronelle, is homesick, he visits this restaurant, because he thinks it feels like France. I think so, too. The wooden facade that draws your attention from the street, the way the whole glass front of the dining room opens right to the sidewalk, the zinc bar, the moody waiters -- everything speaks of a Paris cafe, most of all the food.

I keep hearing that the mussels are the "thing" to order, either curried and creamed, or hiding in a thick gratin of leeks, but so far I have chosen other dishes and been pleased. The cassoulet is delicious, and not too hearty; the tartine baltique turned out to be an open-faced sandwich with smoked salmon, tamara onions, capers, and olive oil, and I slurped down every bite. The steak frites are just what you'd hope for, tasty and comforting. The menu presents a limited number of wines, but since these include a $10 glass of Veuve Cliquot champagne, I can't complain. Or select an aperitif from a list of 16, very reasonably priced. I chose the licorice-flavored Ricard, which is similar to pastis, and at $3.95, a delicious deal.