The best bouillabaisse I ever had was at Blackie's House of Beef. That's because Blackie's (it doesn't really go by "house of beef" anymore) has a fine French chef in the kitchen. In addition to turning out house specialties of filet mignon, prime rib, strip steak, and porterhouse, Claude Rodier produces outstanding seafood dishes, one day a seared filet of rockfish with blood orange hollandaise sauce, another day a lovely lobster fricassee. Scattered throughout the menu are French classics -- if the bouillabaisse is not there, maybe the vichyssoise is. Made-to-order soufflés are always offered.

Blackie's is an institution in Washington, having opened in 1946. A $5 million renovation completed in 2001 has brought the kitchen and the building up to date, while holding on to some of the classic touches, like its stained-glass windows and the emphasis on beef, that locals associate with the old Blackie's. This is a large restaurant, with several rooms and lots of history, so wander around while you're here.