The most polished of the necklace of restaurants adorning this Basse-Ville corner, L'Echaudé has sidewalk tables with butcher paper on top, and a zinc-topped bar inside. Bowls of flowers add color, and the businessman's lunch is written on the mirror, Parisian style. The grilled meats and fishes and the seafood stews blaze no new trails, but they are very satisfying and an excellent value. Good lunch deals range from cheese omelets to steak tartare, served with appetizer, dessert, and coffee. Among many classics on the menu are steak frites, ravioli with blue cheese, and salmon tartare. They keep 24 brands of beer on ice. The owner has a weekly radio show about wine, and he keeps an important cellar, with 125 varieties of wine, a generous 10 of which are available by the glass. This place is mostly frequented by locals.