Although it's not quite up there with Graycliff or Sun And. . ., this is definitely third runner-up in Nassau's culinary sweepstakes. It's a block west of Government House (Delancy St. is opposite the cathedral close off St. Francis Xavier, and only a short distance from Bay St.). It opened back in the 1940s in a colonial mansion set on 2 hectares (5 acres) of tropical foliage. Traditional elegance and fine preparations have always characterized this place.

You're likely to be shown to the main dining room, unless you request the cozy and intimate Victoria Room or, even better, the Garden Patio, which has a greenhouse setting and a ceiling skylight. The chef scours Nassau's markets to collect the freshest and finest ingredients, which he puts together in menus bursting with flavor and full of originality. Look for impromptu daily specials such as breaded veal chop or Long Island duckling. There is not only nouvelle cuisine here but also a respect for tradition. The rack of lamb Provençale is a classic, but you might want to try instead some of the lighter veal dishes. The cream of garlic soup has plenty of flavor but never overpowers. Instead of wildly fanciful desserts, Buena Vista sticks to the classics -- say, cherries jubilee or baked Alaska flambé au cognac. Service is deft, efficient, and polite. Calypso coffee finishes the meal off nicely as you listen to soft piano music.