You might imagine yourself in Hong Kong during the 1980s in this well-designed modern house across the road from the headquarters of the Nassau Yacht Club. It's somewhat upscale, sometimes attracting rich Florida yachters to its dimly lit precincts, where aquariums bubble in a simple but tasteful contemporary setting. Zesty Szechwan flavors appear on the menu, but there are less spicy Cantonese alternatives, including sweet-and-sour chicken and steamed vegetables with cashews and water chestnuts. Lobster tail in the spicy Chinese style is one of our favorites. Dishes can be ordered mild, medium, or zesty hot.