Its theme derives from the growing popularity of cigars, and the way they mix well with people, liquors, beer, and food. You'll find it within a stone outbuilding of the previously recommended hotel, Graycliff, where two dining rooms and a highly accommodating bar area present a large selection of cigars from virtually everywhere. Part of the space is devoted to a factory, where a team of carefully trained "rollers" produced the house brand (Graycliff) of cigars. Drop in just for a drink and a smoke if you wish. Head to either of the two elegantly decorated dining rooms for a meal where patrons often puff away between courses. The cuisine is the kind of hearty fare types like Jackie Gleason or Frank Sinatra enjoyed back in the '50s -- that is, well-prepared and unfussy selections of fresh fish and high-quality meat, even such bistro fare as lobster or crab cakes, stuffed mushroom ravioli and a decent roast lamb with the inevitable mint sauce. Fresh oysters and clams -- often washed down by champagne -- are savory delights as well.