Though the menu lacks the creativity of other Northwest and French restaurants in Portland, and dishes are sometimes disappointing, The Bra (as it's known) is popular for its fun atmosphere. There's live jazz nightly, and several nights each week, a magician performs amazing feats of digital dexterity. On every table you'll find a paper tablecloth and a container of crayons, so you let your artistic ambitions run wild. This hip playfulness is balanced out by dark, formal dining rooms, with massive faux marble pillars, black-and-white tile floors, velvet banquettes, and silk lamp shades that lend an air of fin de siècle Paris. You might start your meal with a ménage à trois of pâtés, then have a cup of onion soup with three cheeses, move on to Oregon snapper with crabmeat and beurre blanc, and finish off with one of the divinely decadent pastries. The wine list is extensive and includes many reasonably priced choices.