This has long been the best Italian restaurant in Portland, and with fewer than a dozen tables, it's also one of the smallest. Everything, from the breads to the luscious desserts, is made fresh in the kitchen with the best of locally available seasonal ingredients. This is an ideal setting for a romantic dinner, and service is attentive--the waiter explains dishes in detail as they are served, and dishes are magically whisked away as they're finished. The fixed-price menu changes every couple of weeks, but a typical dinner might start with bagna cauda, a creamy garlic and anchovy fondue, followed by spicy mussel soup. The pasta course could be a lasagna, with braised fresh artichokes layered with a béchamel sauce and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. There's always a choice of main courses, such as trout stuffed with chanterelle mushrooms, prosciutto, and tomatoes; or pan-roasted rabbit with fennel and white wine. It takes Herculean restraint to choose from a selection that includes chocolate and nut tortes, fresh berry tarts, or liqueur-infused desserts.