This Hayes Valley hot spot is a sexy, fun, and reasonably priced restaurant preferred by everyone from the theatergoing crowd to the young and chic. Decor is scrumptious brasserie, with French rattan cafe chairs, copper-topped tables, a pressed-tin ceiling, soft lighting, period art, and a rich use of color and fabric, including leather and mohair banquettes. Fare is fun--from the specialty cocktails (ever had a "Ginger Rogers," made with gin, mint, lemon juice, ginger ale, and a squeeze of lime?) and good wine list to the slew of seafood starters, including oysters and cold seafood platters. Appetizers range from classic (Caesar salad, French onion soup) to modern luxe (perhaps grilled asparagus with black-truffled mayonnaise, or lamb's lettuce with pickled beets and walnuts). Main courses are equally satisfying, from coq au vin to grilled salmon with beet vinaigrette, dried fig and walnut crostini, and grilled vegetables to an excellent burger to inventive vegetarian dishes. Don't forget the fine cheese menu or the noteworthy desserts. Stopping for breakfast? Anticipate creamy polenta with mascarpone, maple syrup, bananas, and toasted walnuts; soft-boiled eggs with sage croutons; and the usual suspects.