People either love or hate this stodgy Sicilian eatery. Cluttered with hanging hams, fishnets, decorative plates, dolls, mirrors, and over 2 decades' worth of dust, Caffè Sport was once a culinary landmark. Now it's better known for its surly staff and eclectic ambience than for its good, but cream- and butter-heavy, food. Owner-chef-artiste Antonio Latona serves up hearty portions of attitude along with garlic-laden pasta dishes and is happy to report that this is Senator Dianne Feinstein's favorite North Beach hangout. Lunch is tame in comparison to dinner, when the Sport is mobbed and lively, and strangers might be packed together family-style. Disregard the framed menu that sits on each table and accept the waiter's "suggestions." Whatever arrives--whether calamari, mussels, and shrimp in tomato-garlic sauce, or pasta in pesto sauce--it's bound to be bene. Bring a huge appetite, but above all, don't be late if you have a reservation.