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Bix star
56 Gold St
(Between Sansome and Montgomery Sts)
tel.: 415/433-6300
North Beach/Telegraph Hill
American
Price Category: Expensive

The martini lifestyle may now be en vogue, but it was never out of style in this sexy and glamorous dining room. Modeled after a 1920s supper club, Bix is utterly stylish, with curving Honduran mahogany, massive silver columns, and Art-Deco-style lighting, all of which sets the stage for live music and plenty of hobnobbing. While the ultra-sleek setting far overshadows the expensive--and, on one recent occasion, skimpy--food, the legions of diners entranced by the Bix experience don't seem to care. Chicken hash has been a menu favorite for the past 13 years, but newer dishes--such as crisp potato pancake with smoked salmon with caviar, classic steak tartare prepared tableside, prime New York steak grilled and served with Parmesan mashed potatoes with walnut and green peppercorn butter or pan-sautéed sea bass with roasted fingerling potatoes and spicy onion marmalade--are developing their own fan clubs.

Main courses $13-$20 lunch; $14-$26 dinner. Open: Mon-Fri 11:30am-3:30pm and 5:30-11pm; Sat 5:30-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. Reservations recommended. Credit Cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.


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