While this seafood restaurant is hands-down the most whimsical in its stunning oceanic decor, the high price tag and fine, but not mind blowing, food make it a better cocktail and appetizer or lunch stop than dinner choice. The multimillion-dollar attraction and outrageous decor follows the "coastal" cuisine theme; hand-blown jellyfish lamps, kelp bed-like backlit columns, glass clamshells, sea-urchin light fixtures, a sea-life mosaic floor, and a tentacle-encircled bar set the scene. (Thankfully, designer Pat Kuleto's impressive renovation of the 1924 building left the original Gothic arches intact.)

Executive chef Mark Franz, who opened Stars with Jeremiah Tower, orchestrates the cuisine. He offers starters ranging from the expected (very expensive oysters, at $14.50) to the more ambitious, like bay scallops and lobster indulgence (a cornucopia of oysters, clams, crayfish, prawns, mussels, and scallops with horseradish mignonette, for $21.50 per person). While most main courses--such as sautéed black bass with wild mushroom ragout, leek risotto, and pesto or grilled monkfish loin with truffled cauliflower puree, saffron jus, and lobster aioli--stick with the seaside theme, meat and game eaters have at least one option. The whimsy-meets-sophistication extends only as far as the food--the service and wine list (more than 300 by the bottle; 24 by the glass) are seriously professional. This place has been quite the scene since it opened in mid-1997, so reserve well in advance. The food is good, but on our last visit, it was not outstanding. Besides, for seafood, Aqua is worlds better.