Eschewing the same old same old, this ultraswank SoMa spot is a breath of fresh, hip, sexy air--in both food and atmosphere. Fashionable from the salt and pepper shakers to the DJ who spins unobtrusive jazzy grooves on the first-floor turntable, this deliciously dim dining room celebrates a "modernist interpretation of Pacific Rim." The rich red-and-brown split-level room contains fun light fixtures, 22-foot ceilings intimated by columns, translucent paneling, curtained booths (on the first floor), and an exhibition kitchen. Equally sexy is executive chef and partner Jody Denton's innovative and beautifully presented cuisine. Denton, one of the city's recently heralded talents, offers various must-try dishes: "nine bites," a slew of adorable mini appetizers I order every time I set foot in the door; and tuna sashimi roll--especially if you like truffle oil, because the truffle ponzu dipping sauce scents the entire table. Main courses are delightful--inventive, generous, and, following the recent trend, luxurious with the likes of lobster and sweetbread pot au feu with truffles, fingerling potatoes, turnips, and fennel. My favorite? Whole crispy fish. If you can't decide, follow the chef's lead with the five-course tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian. The ambitious wine list features 300 to 400 selections. Desserts include cheeses, perhaps triple chocolate cream napoleon, and almond cardamom panna cotta.