Delfina avoids the bells, whistles, big-time design, and fancy preparations for something that used to be utterly San Francisco: straightforward simplicity and a small-business feel. Unpretentious atmosphere, unreasonably reasonable prices, and chef and co-owner Craig Stoll's ultrafresh seasonal Italian cuisine mean you're in for a price-painless and delicious experience from the minute you're seated by Craig's fiancée Ann Spencer to the time you receive your surprisingly low (by local standards) bill. The recipe for success has been so rewarding for Delfina that it was forced to expand to accommodate frustrated diners begging for reservations. The menu changes, but may feature Niman Ranch flat-iron steak with French fries; roasted chicken with Yukon gold mashed potatoes and shiitake mushrooms; and Alaskan halibut roasted on a fig leaf with yellow wax beans and tarragon butter. The only downside: It's impossible to find parking--literally--and there's no valet.