One of the sharpest rooms in the neighborhood, the colorful Firewood put its money in the essentials and eliminated extra overhead. There are no waiters or waitresses; everyone orders at the counter and then relaxes at the single family-style table, one of the small tables facing the huge street-side windows, or in the cheery back dining room. Management didn't skimp on the cozy-chic atmosphere and inspired but limited menu: The fresh salads ($6.75) come with a choice of three "fixin's" ranging from caramelized onions to spiced walnuts, and three gourmet dressing options. Then there are the pastas--three tortellini selections, such as roasted chicken and mortadella--and gourmet pizzas; calamari with lemon-garlic aïoli is a winner. Or how about herb-roasted half or whole chicken ($6.25 or $12.50, respectively) with roasted new potatoes? Wines cost $3.95 to $4.95 by the glass and a reasonable $16.95 to $19.95 per bottle. Draft and bottled beers are also available, and desserts top off at $2.95. (Thank goodness someone realized that $7 for an after-dinner treat is bordering on ridiculous.)