In the old days (we're talking way back), the Cliff House was the place to go for a romantic night on the town. Nowadays, the aging San Francisco landmark caters mostly to tourists who arrive by the busload to gander at the Sutro Bath remains next door.

Three restaurants in the main two-story building give diners a choice of how much they want to spend. Phineas T. Barnacle is the least expensive; it serves sandwiches, salads, soups, and such Hofbrau-style across from the elaborate saloon-style bar. Afterward, you can seat yourself at the window-side tables overlooking the shore, or beside the fireplace if you're chilled. A step up from the P.T.B. (literally) is Upstairs at the Cliff House, a slightly more formal setting that's best known for its breakfast omelets. The main room, known as the Seafood and Beverage Co., is the fanciest of the lot. Refurbished to recall its glory days near the turn of the century, it offers superb ocean views, particularly at sunset, when the fog lets up; unfortunately, the food is a distant second to the scenery. Arrive before dusk, request a window seat, order a few appetizers and cocktails, and enjoy the view. Or follow my family's lead: We make the elaborate Sunday brunch served from 10am to 3pm in the newly renovated Terrace Room a much anticipated annual event.