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Ana Mandara star
891 Beach St
(At Polk St)
tel.: 415/771-6800
Fisherman's Wharf
Asian/Pac Rim
Price Category: Moderate

Yes, Don Johnson is part owner. But more importantly, this Fisherman's Wharf favorite serves fine Vietnamese food in an outstandingly beautiful setting. Amid a shuttered room with mood lighting, palm trees, and Vietnamese-inspired decor, diners (mostly tourists) splurge on crisp spring rolls; Dungeness crab with zesty lemon sauce; buttery Chilean sea bass, lovingly wrapped and steamed in banana leaf with shiitake mushrooms and miso sauce; a sculptural "lobster tower" with rice, avocado, and daikon sprouts; and wok-charred tournedos of beef tenderloin with sweet onions and peppercress. There is no more expensive Vietnamese dining room in town. But along with the enjoyable fare, diners are paying for the atmosphere, which, if they're in the neighborhood and want something more exotic than the standby seafood dinner, is worth the price.

Main courses $18-$28. Open: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thurs 5:30-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-10:30pm. Reservations recommended. Credit Cards: AE, DISC, MC, V. Bus: 19, 30, 32, or 42. Valet parking $8.


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