Although this homey American restaurant serves dinner on weeknights, it's well known throughout town as the undisputed king of breakfasts. Unfortunately, its acclaim means you're likely to wait up to an hour on weekends. But midweek and in the wee hours of morning, it's possible to slide into a counter or table seat in the colorful split dining room and lose yourself in outstanding and obscenely generous servings of chicken hash, crisped to perfection and served with eggs any way you like them, with fluffy buttermilk biscuits. Pancakes, omelets, and the short list of other breakfast essentials are equally revered. Alas, service can be woefully slow, but at least the busboys are quick to fill coffee cups. Come lunchtime and the far more mellow dinner, solid entrees like salads or grilled salmon with mashed potatoes remind you what's great about good old American cooking.