Force your way past the crowds of business suits at the bar and you'll find yourself in a classic fish house -- complete with cafe curtains, polished brass, leaded glass, and wood paneling. Daily fresh sheets commonly list more than 30 seafood entrees and feature well-prepared seafood dishes such as grilled steelhead with artichokes and spinach, Dungeness crab and shrimp cakes with red-pepper aioli, and cedar-plank-roasted salmon with berry beurre rouge. Also, there are usually a half-dozen or more different varieties of oysters available. In late afternoons and late evenings, bar appetizers are only $1.95. If the restaurant is crowded and you can't get a table, consider sitting at the counter and watching the cooks perform amazing feats with fire.