Airy and chic, this restaurant is full of breezy and sometimes arch references to mainland French glamour. It occupies a cement-sided building directly adjacent to an inland canal (the Sandy Ground Canal) that funnels boats between a saltwater estuary and the open sea. Menu items are flavorful; try grilled filet of tuna with melted blue cheese on a bed of gnocchi in a tomato sauce with fines herbes; braised lamb shank with red wine and garlic sauce; or a half-duckling cooked on the bone with a honey-garlic glaze, garlic-flavored mashed potatoes, and a sweet-and-sour sauce.