One of our favorite restaurants in a town that's loaded with worthy contenders is set in what looks like a private house on the inland side of the main road running through Grand-Case. Its atmosphere is at least partly influenced by Burgundy-born wine steward, Stephane Émorine, who shows a canny ability to recommend the perfect wine by the glass to complement the French and Caribbean cuisine. Meals tend to begin dramatically with such dishes as a casserole of crayfish and avocados with a citrus sauce or a tartar of tuna and salmon with mustard-flavored vinaigrette. Mains include both rustic cuisine du terroir (such as roasted rack of lamb with either a rosemary or a cream-based pistou sauce) and Creole dishes, including a fillet of local dorado served with a reduction of crayfish, or a blaff (stew) of red snapper flavored with Creole herbs. Other dishes go beyond Creole classics, onto a creative level all their own: Witness the scallops in puff pastry, with a unique form of tea that's brewed from flap mushrooms and mint leaves.