This neighborhood staple has flourished in the heart of Paris's wholesale garment district since the 1930s, when Algeria was a distinct part of the French-speaking world. Today you'll dine in a long narrow room whose walls are hung with colorful Berber carpets and whose patrons are likely to include shop workers from the nearby wholesale clothiers. Always on the menu is the Algerian staple, couscous, as well as an array of oft-changing daily specials such as veal stew, shoulder or rack of lamb, grilled fish, and roast chicken. The portions are so large you should take along a ravenous appetite. The wines are from throughout France and North Africa.