Should Flaubert or Balzac miraculously come back, they'd feel at home here amid the old Paris decor with original gas lamps and time-mellowed paneling. When it opened in 1865, this bistro was the food outlet for the Café Riche next door; today it offers yesterday's grandeur and simple, well-prepared food. You'll be ushered to one of five areas crafted for maximum intimacy, with velour banquettes, ceilings painted with allegorical themes, and accents of brass and frosted glass. The wine list favors Loire Valley vintages that go well with the rillettes and rillons (potted fish or meat, especially pork) in Vouvray wine aspic, poached fish with buttery white-wine sauce, blanquette of chicken, and game dishes like civet (stew) of rabbit.