Its windows overlook a verdant patch of lawn that's so green you might for a moment imagine you've entered a rustic countryside inn. Dark paneling, deep colors, hanging hams and pigtails of garlic, and lacy curtains emulate the Basque country, the corner of southwestern France adjacent to Spain. Victor Hugo and Chateaubriand ate here in centuries past. The cramped tables are a drawback, but not much of one in this rich atmosphere. The menu includes a roster of specialties like cassoulet, magret of duckling, beef filet with peppercorns, a peppery omelet known as piperades, cocottes of mussels, and terrines or pan-fried slices of foie gras. The comfortable three-star Hôtel du Vert Galant is associated with the restaurant.