This place is so old it's new again. Founded pre-World War II, it received a vital new lease on life after the opening of the nearby Opéra Bastille. Today its three dining rooms boast a decor evoking aspects of both the tropics and faux-baroque Europe, with green plants and lots of original oil paintings by long-term patrons. Known for decanting obscure vintages from the Touraine and the region around Beaujolais and Bordeaux, it appeals to photographers and lesser-known characters in French-speaking showbiz. If you're hungry, consider any of the generous plats du jour like leeks steeped in vinaigrette, minced chicken with tarragon, boeuf bourguignonne, fried haddock, and tagliatelle with salmon, chives, and cream sauce.