The name derives from a village in the Lotte region of southwestern France that has always been associated with rich cuisine, traditional values, and literature. (Le Déjeuner de Sousceyrac by Père Benoît was a best-selling ode to French nostalgia in the 1970s.) You can capture some of this feeling at this charmer whose decor and menu have changed little since 1925. A writer from Gourmet magazine noted, "A Sousceyrac was undoubtedly intended to induce deep nostalgia in Parisians the day it opened; its southwestern-inflected menu practically reads like a roster of what Frenchmen like to call 'The Patrimony'." Classic examples include slices of velvety foie gras; mousse of grouse; and roasted rabbit à la royale, cooked in a blend of red wine, a puréed medley of its innards, and its own blood. Dishes like this absolutely demand a strong red wine, of which the restaurant lists many.