This restaurant ("eggplant") is luring savvy diners down to the lower reaches of Chelsea, where chef Williams Drabble takes over from the renowned Gordon Ramsay. Drabble, who earned his first Michelin star in 1998, has remained true to the style and ambience of this establishment. Although popular with celebrities, the restaurant remains unpretentious and refuses to pander to fame. (When the late Princess Margaret complained the air-conditioning was too cold, she was lent a cardigan; and Madonna was refused a late-night booking!)

Every dish is satisfyingly flavorful, from the warm salad of vegetables with shaved truffles and asparagus purée to the roasted monkfish served with crushed new potatoes, roasted leeks, and a red-wine sauce. Starters also charm and delight palates, ranging from the ravioli of crab with mussels, chile, ginger, and coriander, to the terrine of foie gras with confit of duck and pears poached in port. Also resting on your aubergine-colored Villeroy & Boch plate might be mallard with a celeriac fondant or assiette of lamb with a thyme-scented jus. Another stunning main course is a slice of sea bass with bouillabaisse potatoes. A new dish is roasted veal sweetbreads with caramelized-onion purée and a casserole of flap mushrooms. There are only 14 tables, so bookings are imperative.