The Lilliputian dining room is cramped, the menu is the shortest in the city, and yet the crowds can't stay away. Why? Simply because the food is seductive. The trick is in the unusual marriages of fruits and vegetables flavoring many of the dishes. Rosti and rhubarb compote enliven a veal chop, and it turns out that grilled calamari tastes better with citrus fruit. Who knew? The highlight of the triad of desserts is chocolate mousse with heavy cream and paper-thin pear shavings.