This charming bistro, where a rococo Elvis presides over the bar, personifies the pleasures and problems of metropolitan life. It's overcrowded -- 19 tables for two cram the narrow room, forcing neighbors to rub elbows. The food, however, makes it all worthwhile. The menu is deliberately short, allowing the kitchen to focus hothouse-flower care on its featured selections: rack of lamb, Atlantic salmon, veal tenderloin. Starters, like three-mushroom salad, get equal attention.