If the food weren't reason enough to come here (and it definitely is!), then Rito himself would be. He directs gentle, devoted attention to every detail of this cozy trattoria. His grandfather emigrated from Italy, and the recipes and tradition of Italian food come naturally to him. So does his passion for food -- it's obvious as he describes the specialties, which include lasagna (vegetarian, verde, or meat-filled); ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta; spaghetti with garlic, anchovy, and lemon zest; or a side of homemade Italian sausage. Everything is made by hand from fresh ingredients. Pizza-lovers favor the Piedmonte, with that famous sausage and mushrooms, and the Horacio, a cheeseless version with tomatoes, oregano, and basil. Sandwiches come hot or cold; arrive hungry -- they're a two-handed operation. Because Rito offers home and hotel delivery, I enjoy his food more than any other restaurant's. It's 1 1/2 blocks off the malecón.