Before Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger spiced up cable TV as "Too Hot Tamales," they started this restaurant in West Hollywood. Now Border Grill has moved to a boldly painted, cavernous (read: loud) space in Santa Monica, and the gals aren't in the kitchen very much at all (though cookbooks and paraphernalia from their Food Network show are displayed prominently for sale). But their influence on the inspired menu is enough to maintain the cantina's popularity with folks who swear by the authentic flavor of Yucatán fish tacos, rock shrimp with ancho chilies, and meaty ropa vieja, the traditional Latin stew. The best meatless dish is mulitas de hongos, a layering of portobello mushrooms, poblano chilies, black beans, cheese, and guacamole, spiced up with roasted garlic and seared red chard. Distracting desserts are displayed prominently near the entrance, so you may spend the meal fantasizing about the Aztec chocolate cake, coconut flan, or Key lime pie. Note: A second location, Border Grill Pasadena, recently opened at the Paseo Colorado shopping complex in Pasadena (260 E. Colorado Blvd.; tel. 626/844-8988).