Sicilian-born Celestino Drago is a terrific chef who has been at the helm at high-profile L.A. restaurants for years. Branching out on his own, Chef Drago hit the jackpot with this hugely successful, value-priced eatery. The restaurant is a simple pasta place with white walls, a long bar, and a pasta-making area; it's as narrow as a bowling alley and almost as loud. Only starters, pastas, and desserts are served, but the selections are vast and great for grazing. Swordfish carpaccio with shaved fennel and blood oranges, and seafood and spaghetti in a flaky phyllo envelope, are Drago's signature dishes. Drago offered a sautéed foie gras appetizer with a buttery balsamic vinegar glaze at Chianti, and continues to serve it here -- to those who know enough to ask for it. Pastas include lobster-stuffed ravioli in a silky lobster reduction, and garganelli: wheat pasta curls in amatriciana sauce (puréed tomato, pancetta, pecorino, and onion). Two risotti are offered nightly, both usually hit the proverbial bull's-eye -- particularly the black squid ink. Unfortunately, Il Pastaio is too small. There's almost always a wait, and an uncomfortable one at that. But by meal's end, it always seems worth it.