Unless you desire a restaurant so dimly lit that waiters whip out flashlights so customers can read the menu, bypass the 62-year-old Chianti Ristorante and head next door to Chianti Cucina, the bright, bustling, eat-in "kitchen" that offers excellent meals at fair prices. The menu, which changes frequently, is always interesting and often exceptional. Hot and cold appetizers range from fresh handmade mozzarella and prosciutto to lamb carpaccio with asparagus and marinated grilled eggplant filled with goat cheese, arugula, and sun-dried tomatoes. As for main dishes, the homemade pasta is superior and inventive. Try the black tortellini filled with fresh salmon, or the giant ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta.